Buff Orpington lay approx 175 – 200 light-brown eggs per year
Hens all lay eggs, but some do it better than others. Terry Beebe
considers the best chicken breeds for laying eggs, pure-breed and
hybrid, and he shows us how to get the best from them
Selecting birds for an egg-laying flock is not difficult, but you
will need to research the matter to find the best birds for the job. If
you prefer to keep pure-breeds, then selecting a commercial pure-breed
is probably a better option, and these include the Rhode Island Red,
Sussex, Wyandotte, Leghorn, Australorp and Rock. They are all ideal egg
producers, but be careful when choosing, as many exhibition breeds are
bred purely to a show pen standard, and egg-laying capabilities often
suffer as a result.
The Australorp. Lays around 200-240 brown eggs per year
There are many other breeds suitable for egg production too, so do
some research before you commit yourself, and take into account the fact
that they should be easy to handle and produce sufficient eggs for your
requirements. Certain chickens also produce different sizes and colours
of egg, whilst others might fare better in different environments –
Leghorns, for example, lay a large, white egg and can do well in more
confined areas.
Leghorn. 280 white eggs per year.
Plymouth Rocks are also reasonably suited to smaller areas, while
Rhode Island Reds provide very dark-brown eggs – you get the general
picture, but there is always a breed to suit your requirements.
Ancona bantams are good layers of small eggs but require less space than large fowl.
FINDING THE BEST LAYERS
Things to look out for when selecting members of the flock include
large combs (ideally, bright-red ones), together with an alert and
active disposition – bright eyes are usually a very positive sign. When
holding a bird you can check the width of the pubic bones – there should
be at least two fingers’ width between these bones, and four fingers
should fit in between the tip of the breastbone and the vent. The
abdomen should be soft, rounded and deep.
Checking the width between the breastbone and the event.
Chickens come in many different varieties, and
all lay eggs.
These eggs have the same nutritional content and value, but only a
handful of breeds can actually be placed in the very best egg-laying
category. A number of breeds have been developed for their egg-laying
capabilities, and if this is your main requirement, then these breeds
will best serve your purpose. The commercial Leghorn, for example, is
one of the best, and is capable of producing up to 300 eggs each year –
these same abilities have also been utilised by crossing with Leghorns
to produce many of today’s familiar hybrids.
The rare Ixworth is both a good layer and an excellent meat bird.
COMMERCIAL HYBRIDS
Most commercial hybrids are bred for egg production, so if eggs are your
sole
requirement, these would be your best choice. Most hybrids were
originally crossed using some of the best pure-breed egg layers, and
today there are many individual strains available from a range of
breeders, with most capable of very high levels of egg production. It is
expected that a hybrid in a ‘commercial environment’ will produce
around 340 eggs per year.
ISA Brown hens
The ISA Brown is the most familiar of today’s hybrids, and is widely
used under different names, depending on the supplier. It is probably
the best egg layer available and the one most often used in commercial
units. Most ex-battery hens are ISA Browns, and are traditionally
friendly and tame, once they get used to a more open environment.
The list of hybrids is extensive and includes the Black Rock, Black
Star, Red Star, Speckledy (a Maran cross), the White Star (a Leghorn
cross) and the Blue Bell. Many will lay in excess of 300 eggs per year,
subject to the breed and husbandry – a back-garden bird, however, will
rarely lay as well as a bird in a commercial environment.
A Speckledy
SOME OF TODAY’S TOP LAYERS
Some of today’s top layers:
* Leghorn – 280 white eggs per year.
* Rhode Island Red – 260–310 brown eggs per year.
* Light Sussex – 240–260 large, creamy-brown eggs per year.
* Plymouth Rock – 190–240 large, brown eggs per year.
* Wyandotte – 200–240 large, brown eggs per year.
* Cuckoo Maran – 160–240 dark-brown eggs per year.
* Barred Rock – 210 brown eggs (with a touch of pink) per year.
* Orpington – 175–200 light-brown eggs per year.
* Australorp – 200–240 brown eggs per year.
* Faverolle – 160–200 cream-tinted eggs per year.
The above egg numbers are approximate, and the egg colours broadly
as per the description. If considering any of the above birds, speak
with owners and breeders and ask about their experiences with the birds,
and remember that some birds are simply better layers than others.
THINGS TO CONSIDER
Although the breed you choose can determine the productivity, there
are a number of other factors that can help increase egg production.
These include:
* DAYLIGHT AND LIGHTING
Light affects egg production. Although a winter moult plays its part
in stopping egg production, hens always lay fewer eggs as daylight
decreases, and production will begin to increase again with longer days
in spring. To produce the maximum number of eggs you might expect from a
particular breed, the birds will need a minimum of 14 hours of light
each day, and to achieve this during winter, artificial lighting is
required together with a timer. The lights can then come on before
sunrise and remain on after dark, with the timer set to give the precise
amount of light required to maximise egg laying.
* EX-BATTERY HENS
These birds have usually come from commercial poultry farms, are
generally 18–24 months old, and have been in confinement on the farm.
They will have produced the maximum amount of eggs during this period,
and although they are past their very best, they can still produce a
good amount of eggs for the next year or two, given the right feed and
environment. When they arrive they will be stressed, so stand back and
give them a few days to settle in and get used to their new
surroundings.
* BROODINESS
It is a good idea to compare breeds for broodiness – whether they will
sit
on their eggs. A broody is useful for breeders, but a serious problem
in an egg-laying flock. A broody hen will cease to lay during periods of
broodiness. This trait has been more or less bred out of hybrids,
although broody hybrids do occur.
* FOOD
To ensure your hens’ bodies function as they should, they require a
nutrient-rich diet. It is important that a laying hen receives a
balanced diet which includes the correct levels of protein,
carbohydrates, fat, vitamins and minerals. If a laying flock consists of
birds older than 16–20 weeks, it is recommended that a diet of layers’
pellets is given as a basic daily feed. Layers’ pellets contain 16–18
percent protein and 3.5 percent calcium to promote strong eggshells.
Many keepers also add oyster-shell for extra calcium just in case the
feed does not provide enough of this important mineral. A calcium
deficiency can result in thin-shelled eggs and also leg problems.
You may also need to offer your birds a higher-protein
feed during periods of peak egg production, and when hot weather causes
them to eat less. If you keep your flock confined, provide them with a
source of insoluble grit to assist in grinding the feed in their
gizzards. Free-range birds will normally find sufficient grit whilst
foraging.
* WATER
Water comprises more than half of the physical content of an egg, so laying chickens (and
all
chickens!) need a constant supply of fresh, clean water. This ensures
that they do not dehydrate and will remain healthy. It must be available
at all times, both during hot, dry weather and in the freezing cold of
winter. If there is a lack of water, egg production will suffer.
* SHELTER
The weather in the UK is unpredictable, so make sure your birds
always have adequate shelter. They will quickly become chilled during
wet weather if they are denied shelter, which means that production,
together with health, will suffer. Housing and any temporary shelter
needs to be dry, clean and with enough room and ventilation for the
number of birds being housed.
POSSIBLE PROBLEMS
Problem:
Chickens laying eggs anywhere and everywhere.
Solution:
Confine the birds completely or until later in the day; put artificial ‘dummy’ eggs in nest boxes.
Problem:
Egg-eating chickens.
Solution:
Gather eggs promptly; provide secluded, darkened nest sites; identify the culprit(s) and remove them from the flock.
Putting a golf ball in with the eggs will often discourage egg eating.
Problem:
Filthy eggs.
Solution:
Provide nest boxes with clean litter; keep coops, runs and nest boxes clean; collect eggs frequently.
Problem:
Reduced egg production.
Solution:
Provide a good, balanced diet of layers’ pellets; protect eggs
from predators; install artificial lighting; reduce sources of stress;
improve biosecurity to prevent disease.
HENS’ HALL OF SHAME
Certain breeds are just not good layers, and these same birds can be
difficult to rear to adulthood. They include the Belgian D’Anver,
Sebright and the Japanese Bantam. All are true bantams, and beautiful
birds in their own right, but can prove difficult to breed, especially
for a beginner.
THE WORST LAYERS
In truth, all chickens lay eggs. Exhibition birds can be some of the
worst layers in terms of numbers, as this ability has often been
sacrificed to achieve a required breed standard. When it comes to
breeding, Japanese Bantams can lose as many as 25 per cent of their
chicks, as they die shortly before hatching due to an allele (gene)
combination common to the breed, together with the fact that they are
not hardy. Although Araucanas are great to rear, they, too, can suffer
from a lethal gene combination, which means that some chicks will die
before hatching – a depressing prospect.
AGGRESSIVE CHICKENS
Whilst in the ‘hall of shame’ we should perhaps consider another
difficult trait. Certain breeds can be aggressive, and this makes them a
poor choice, especially for families. Breeds with aggressive behaviour
include the Crevecoeur, New Hampshire Red, Dominique and Old English
Game Fowl. The level of aggression will vary depending on the individual
bird, but cockerels are always more likely to be aggressive than hens.
< pic 12 with caption: An Oxford English Game Fowl: an attractive
bird but with aggressive tendencies. >
COLLECTING CLEAN EGGS
It is always more pleasant to collect clean eggs, and the likelihood
of this is increased if your birds are kept in clean, dry conditions
with uncrowded nest boxes. You can clean an egg in a number of ways; in
the commercial egg industry they are often cleaned using water, but if
this is not done properly it can result in bacteria being sucked
into
the egg through the porous shell. If using water to clean eggs, dry
them immediately and consume them quickly. You can clean an
exceptionally dirty egg using fine-grade sandpaper, but you would be
better off throwing it away to be on the safe side.
Anyone used to collecting their own eggs who has then had to buy some
(even the free-range ones!) will immediately appreciate the difference:
runny, pale-yolked eggs as opposed to your own birds’ solid and bright,
yellow-yolked wonders. Fresh eggs are one of the real benefits of
keeping chickens, and are to be prized, whether as a part of your own
breakfast, as a gift to friends or family, or as something special and
unique if you choose to sell any of your produce. Treat your hens well
with a good supply of appropriate food, water and clean, dry shelter,
and for most of the year they will repay you well with a good supply of
eggs. There are very few creatures that can offer such an appealing
payback in exchange for their keep.
https://homefarmer.co.uk/best-chicken-breeds-for-laying-eggs/
