Build an Insect House
Tony Lush, author of the Haynes Garden Buildings Manual, shows how to build an overwintering hibernation place for garden insects
See also:
https://homefarmer.co.uk/creating-a-wildlife-garden/https://homefarmer.co.uk/how-to-help-hedgehogs/
https://homefarmer.co.uk/building-and-using-a-wormery/
Many gardens are kept unnecessarily tidy and consequently provide few hibernation opportunities for insect life. Most insects benefit the garden in one way or another, so why not provide an overwintering place for them? Here’s how to make a simple hibernation place (hibernaculum) for insects – the insect hibernation boxes available from your local garden centres will provide you with further ideas and inspiration.
Materials
- 510mm length 150mm x 25mm sawn timber, untreated (for the main carcass)
- 5–10 bamboos about 1.5m long
- 4 x 50mm x 8g screws
- 300mm length Ex 125mm x 25mm feather-edge or similar (for the roof)
- 8 x 30mm galvanised clout nails
- 2 screw eyes
- String
- UHU glue (or similar)
Tools
- Universal hardpoint saw
- Jigsaw
- Extension lead
- RCD (or safety plug)
- Belt sander (may be needed)
- Drill/driver
- Twist drill bits: 8mm, 5mm and 2mm
- Flat drill bit: 20mm
- Screwdriver bit: Pozi (PZ) No. 2
- Hammer
- Workbench
- Clamps
- Combination square
- Pencil
- Tape measure
- Drill carrier (to act as a guide for hole sizes)
- Safety glasses…
- Dust mask…
- Ear defenders…
- Gloves
Method
1 Cut a 425mm length of 150mm x 25mm timber to form the back and front of the hibernaculum. Mark the centre of the plank at each end and join the marks to form a centre-line along the length of the timber. This can be done using a combination square set to half the width of the plank (75mm). Using the combination square from both sides will indicate if the mark is central.
2 Mark the apex on both ends of the plank so that the apex corner (the top corner) is 90°. This can be done using the 45° guide on a combination square.
3 Cut the apexes marked at either end of the plank. Mark a line across the middle of the plank equidistant from each apex. Do not cut the plank in half yet.
4 Draw round a suitably sized paint tin (100mm in diameter) to mark a circle on the centre-line of the plank. This circle should touch the base of the triangle forming the apex.
5 Securely clamp the plank to a bench or workbench and drill a 20mm hole inside the circle near its circumference to allow the jigsaw blade to enter.
6 Use a jigsaw to cut out the circle on one end of the plank only. Don’t push the saw too hard – work slowly and concentrate on following the line.
TIP!
Have the jigsaw set at maximum (or near maximum) speed and on full pendulum setting, and make sure the blade is sharp (fit a new one, if necessary).
7 Cut along the centre-line marked in Step 3 to form two end pieces. A chop saw is ideal for this, but a universal hardpoint saw will do the job. Lay the end with the hole in it (the front) on top of the other end piece. If necessary, cut them so that they’re the same length. Use a pencil to mark the 100mm hole on the second end piece.
8 Drill a series of holes around the pencilled circle on the back piece of the hibernaculum. The drill bit needs to be the correct size for the ends of the bamboo canes to fit into its holes, so either drill a few trial holes to find the best size, or try fitting the canes in the drill carrier. They don’t have to be a tight fit. An 8mm bit was used for the hibernaculum in this project. Don’t drill all the way through the back piece.
TIP!
If your drill has one, fit its depth gauge rod to ensure that the bit goes a set depth into the wood. Alternatively, wrap a length of masking tape around the drill bit to give you an idea how far it’s gone in.
9 Drill two 5mm screw holes at the bottom of the front and back pieces. These are 10mm up from the bottom and 30mm in from the edges. Cut the 70mm-long 150mm x 25mm base piece. Ensuring that you align the base accurately onto the front or back piece, clamp it and use 50mm x 8g screws to screw one end piece to the base. Then screw the other end piece to the base. Drilling 2mm pilot holes for the screws in the end of the base will help to stop the wood splitting, as will driving the screws in slowly.
10 Cut short lengths of bamboo so that when they’re pushed into the 8mm holes in the back they’re flush with the outside face of the front end. You may find it easier to cut the bamboo quite long, push it into the 8mm hole, mark where your accurate cut needs to be, then remove the bamboo and cut it to length. Remove the front end piece with the large hole in it.
SAFETY TIP!
If using a chop saw to cut the bamboo, always cut long lengths – don’t try to hold a short length close to the blade! Leftover bits can be used in the garden.
11 Having cut enough lengths of bamboo to fit into all the 8mm holes, push them into the holes – a gentle tap with a hammer will ensure they’re fully in. If they won’t stay in the holes, glue them in place with UHU or a similar adhesive.
12 Replace the end piece so that all the bamboos are collected in the hole.
13 Measure the length from the inside face of the back piece to the outside face of the front and cut bamboos to this length. Rest these in the large hole. Keep cutting and fitting bamboos until the large hole is full. Hammer a few more in to wedge the canes tightly in place.
14 If you see the need, clamp the hibernaculum securely in your workbench and use a belt sander to level off the canes at the front – but the insects won’t care about them being uneven!
15 To form the roof, cut two 150mm lengths of Ex 125mm x 25mm feather-edge and use 30mm galvanised clout nails to fix them to the apex of the end pieces. The feather-edge needs to overlap at the front and sides to keep rain off the insects. As usual, drilling a 2mm pilot hole for the nails will help to stop the feather-edge splitting.
16 Screw two screw eyes through the roof cladding into the top of the end pieces. Tie string through these to hang the hibernaculum.
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