Members Raj and Sally are pleased to share some lovely lamby pics!
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| Twins |
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| Proud Daddy |
We are a group of micro farmers who welcome anyone who keeps animals or grows vegetables and fruit, or loves cooking! Who would like to come along to our meetings or events and share their experiences with others. You don't need to have lots of animals to be a "smallholder." Many people who grow vegetables, have some bees or maybe a couple of backyard chickens come along and enjoy the meetings and events as well.
Saturday 30 March 2013
Tuesday 26 March 2013
Ascott Newsletter - March 2013
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The first signs of spring in the garden promises some British garden greens. Keep a look out for purple sprouting broccoli, spring onions, baby leeks and spinach. This month we have included a recipe for leek, goat’s cheese and bacon risotto. It’s easy to make and will please everyone and don't forget to keep sending in your favourite family recipes to
Chickens tend to jump rather than fly. They can jump about 4 feet high and will use something to stand on if necessary. The thing to remember though is that if your chicken can jump out a fox will be able to jump in! By clipping a chicken’s wing you will be controlling their flight. Clipping a wing causes the bird to lose the balance needed during flight but this will only last until new feathers have grown back during the next moult and they will then have to be re clipped. Wing clipping will not harm the chicken and you will only need to clip one wing. I would suggest that your fence is about 6 feet high and this should stop them getting out.
Monday 25 March 2013
Permaculture - The Basics
The Basics
Permaculture combines three key aspects:
1. an ethical framework
2. understandings of how nature works, and
3. a design approach
This unique combination is then used to support the creation of sustainable, agriculturally productive, non-polluting and healthy settlements. In many places this means adapting our existing settlements. In other cases it can mean starting from scratch. Both offer interesting challenges and opportunities.
The word 'permaculture' comes from 'permanent agriculture' and 'permanent culture' - it is about living lightly on the planet, and making sure that we can sustain human activities for many generations to come, in harmony with nature. Permanence is not about everything staying the same. Its about stability, about deepening soils and cleaner water, thriving communities in self-reliant regions, biodiverse agriculture and social justice, peace and abundance.
One thing is for sure. Its a fascinating subject, with many aspects, and its still evolving. In this section of the website we present more details about the different aspects of permaculture, and examples of how it is being used in Britain and around the world.
1. an ethical framework
2. understandings of how nature works, and
3. a design approach
This unique combination is then used to support the creation of sustainable, agriculturally productive, non-polluting and healthy settlements. In many places this means adapting our existing settlements. In other cases it can mean starting from scratch. Both offer interesting challenges and opportunities.
The word 'permaculture' comes from 'permanent agriculture' and 'permanent culture' - it is about living lightly on the planet, and making sure that we can sustain human activities for many generations to come, in harmony with nature. Permanence is not about everything staying the same. Its about stability, about deepening soils and cleaner water, thriving communities in self-reliant regions, biodiverse agriculture and social justice, peace and abundance.
One thing is for sure. Its a fascinating subject, with many aspects, and its still evolving. In this section of the website we present more details about the different aspects of permaculture, and examples of how it is being used in Britain and around the world.
Ethics
Neatly summed up as "Earth care, people care, fair shares", the permaculture ethics give purpose to our work, and connect us with the many millions of others who are also working towards a fairer, healthier and more harmonious human culture.
1. CARE OF THE EARTH: Provision for all life systems to continue and multiply.
Permaculture works with natural systems, rather than in competition with them. It uses methods that have minimal negative impact on the Earth’s natural environment. In everyday life, this may involve buying local produce, eating in season, and cycling rather than driving. Its about choices we make, and how we manage the land. Its about opposing the destruction of wild habitats, and the poisoning of soil, water and atmosphere, and its about designing and creating healthy systems that meet our needs without damaging the planet.
2. CARE OF PEOPLE: Provision for people to access those resources necessary to their existence.
As a part of this planet, you matter! This is about ensuring the wellbeing of both individuals and communities. As individuals, we need to look after ourselves and each other so that as a community we can develop environmentally friendly lifestyles. In the poorest parts of the world, this is still about helping people to access enough food and clean water, within a safe society. In the rich world, it means redesigning our unsustainable systems and replacing them with sustainable ones. This could mean working together to provide efficient, accessible public transport, or to provide after-school clubs for kids. When people come together, friendships are formed and sustainability becomes possible.
3. SETTING LIMITS TO POPULATION AND CONSUMPTION: By governing our own needs, we can set resources aside to further the above principles. Setting limits to population is not about limiting people's free movement, tight border controls and a one child policy. Its about working to achieve a stable human population, using a number of key strategies. These include: access to family planning; helping people to meet their basic needs of clean water, adequate food, and basic healthcare and education; education for girls.
The third ethic recognises that:
a. The Earth’s resources are limited.
b. These resources need to be shared amongst many beings.
Permaculture seeks to divide these resources fairly amongst people, animals and plants alike, not forgetting future generations who will need food, water and shelter just as much as we do now. Its 'one planet living'.
Additionally
The 'Prime Directive of Permaculture'
"The only ethical decision is to take responsibility for our own existence and that of our children." Bill Mollison.
It's like playing a game
"I find that most people are comfortable with the idea of 'ground rules' or 'rules of the game'. By explaining permaculture as a 'game', people can make up their own mind about whether they become 'players' or not. I think that it's counter-productive to try to require people to behave ethically, no matter what the situation that they find themselves in. But to ask for a certain approach if people are involved in permaculture, then that's fine. We can't force people to play the game, but we can be clear about what the game is, and how we play it. The choice to participate remains with the individual." Angus Soutar
1. CARE OF THE EARTH: Provision for all life systems to continue and multiply.
Permaculture works with natural systems, rather than in competition with them. It uses methods that have minimal negative impact on the Earth’s natural environment. In everyday life, this may involve buying local produce, eating in season, and cycling rather than driving. Its about choices we make, and how we manage the land. Its about opposing the destruction of wild habitats, and the poisoning of soil, water and atmosphere, and its about designing and creating healthy systems that meet our needs without damaging the planet.
2. CARE OF PEOPLE: Provision for people to access those resources necessary to their existence.
As a part of this planet, you matter! This is about ensuring the wellbeing of both individuals and communities. As individuals, we need to look after ourselves and each other so that as a community we can develop environmentally friendly lifestyles. In the poorest parts of the world, this is still about helping people to access enough food and clean water, within a safe society. In the rich world, it means redesigning our unsustainable systems and replacing them with sustainable ones. This could mean working together to provide efficient, accessible public transport, or to provide after-school clubs for kids. When people come together, friendships are formed and sustainability becomes possible.
3. SETTING LIMITS TO POPULATION AND CONSUMPTION: By governing our own needs, we can set resources aside to further the above principles. Setting limits to population is not about limiting people's free movement, tight border controls and a one child policy. Its about working to achieve a stable human population, using a number of key strategies. These include: access to family planning; helping people to meet their basic needs of clean water, adequate food, and basic healthcare and education; education for girls.
The third ethic recognises that:
a. The Earth’s resources are limited.
b. These resources need to be shared amongst many beings.
Permaculture seeks to divide these resources fairly amongst people, animals and plants alike, not forgetting future generations who will need food, water and shelter just as much as we do now. Its 'one planet living'.
Additionally
The 'Prime Directive of Permaculture'
"The only ethical decision is to take responsibility for our own existence and that of our children." Bill Mollison.
It's like playing a game
"I find that most people are comfortable with the idea of 'ground rules' or 'rules of the game'. By explaining permaculture as a 'game', people can make up their own mind about whether they become 'players' or not. I think that it's counter-productive to try to require people to behave ethically, no matter what the situation that they find themselves in. But to ask for a certain approach if people are involved in permaculture, then that's fine. We can't force people to play the game, but we can be clear about what the game is, and how we play it. The choice to participate remains with the individual." Angus Soutar
Friday 22 March 2013
Pigs For Sale
Member Andy Moggeridge has some pigs for sale from his Smallholding in Abbess Roding
2 Nice Pedigree Tamworth gilts
Lucky Lass X Glenn.
D.O.B. 22/2/12 Ready for the boar and could be put to our Large Black for a X bred litter.
Our Tamworth Boar is the father so not suitable. Birth notified, tagged and tattooed £175 each.
Litter of Pedigree Tamworth pigs.
Lucky Lass X Glenn. D.O.B. 14/10/12.
5 Gilts, 3 Boars. Birth notified, tattooed and tagged.
Can be Registered for breeding. £4.50 per week.
Please email Andy: janeandandy@therodingsplantery.co.uk or visit their website www.therodingsplantery.co.uk
Wednesday 20 March 2013
Chickens - Breeding & Incubation
Chickens - Breeding & Incubation
by Carole Youngs of The Smallholder SeriesIf you have a broody hen sitting on eggs:
Keep a close eye on the calendar, hen’s eggs take 21 days to hatch- Take her off the eggs at the same time each day for feeding
- Some people advocate not lifting the hen off her nest, preferring to trust her instincts
- Allow her to feed for at least 20/30 minutes
- Make sure she has access to fresh water in the coop at all times
- While she is feeding, turn the eggs through 180 degrees
- Check that the turf-base of the nest remains damp, but not soggy
Caring for the broody hen:
Firstly, keep a note of the date the hen starts to incubate her clutch of eggs (up to 11 for the larger breeds, maximum of 7 for smaller hens). During the process she’ll probably be reluctant to leave the nest, but it’s vitally important that she has the opportunity to eat, drink and defecate. Lift her gently off the nest, preferably at the same time each day, and don’t allow her to return for at least 20-30 minutes (some people advocate not lifting the hen off her nest, preferring to trust her instincts). Offer high-energy mixed grains and make sure that she defecates before returning to the nest to avoid soiling the eggs (and herself, which can lead to flies laying eggs around her vent, leading to ‘fly-strike’). Make sure she has access in the coop to clean, fresh water at all times. A sitting hen is more at risk from attack by red mites and lice, so give her access to a dust bath and treat with a proprietary insecticide to keep her free of parasites.
The hatching process:
Egg incubation times vary slightly according to the size of egg: a large egg will take perhaps a day longer to hatch than a small egg. At around Day 18, you can lightly spray a little warm water onto the eggs; this can make it easier for the chicks to break through the shell. Keep a close eye on the calendar; you should expect to hear some cheeping by Day 20, this indicates that the chicks have pecked through to the air space at the blunt end of the egg. Within a further 6-10 hours, the chicks will have broken out of the shell. If a chick seems unable to manage by itself, it’s questionable whether it’s a good idea to help or not – more often than not, it will be a weak or malformed chick that may not survive. The newly hatched wet chick will quickly dry, and will be up and running and looking for food and water within minutes. It will need the hen for warmth, and hopefully she will fluff up her feathers and tuck them in around her.Raising Healthy Chicks:
Once the chicks have hatched their needs are pretty well the same whether hatched by a broody hen or an incubator, though hopefully in the case of the hen, she will do most of the work!- Housing: A broody coop with a small mesh-covered run that can be moved regularly onto clean, fresh ground if the chicks are to be reared by the hen; a broody box if the chicks have been hatched in an incubator.
- Temperature: The newly hatched chick needs warmth, firstly to dry its down to save getting chilled, and for the next 6 weeks at least, until it grows it’s own feathers. The mother hen will keep her chicks warm by gathering them under her warm down, the incubator chicks will need to be placed in a draught-free ‘brooder box’ where artificial heat is provided by a heat lamp (the ones that provide heat without light are best, so the chicks become attuned to day and night rhythms) or heat pads. Make sure they’re not too hot (moving away from the heat source, gasping), or too cold (huddled tight together under the heat source, heads reaching up towards heat source.
- Health Checks: As soon as the newly hatched chick has dried and fluffed up, it’s a good idea to quickly check that it has no deformities, things to look out for include: ‘Star-gazing’ this indicates a serious disease (Encephalamasia) from which the chick will not recover, so best to humanely cull; ‘Crooked Toes’ meaning the chick cannot stand properly, again, there is no remedy and culling is the best option; ‘Splay Legs’ may be caused by too slippery a surface, so provide a more secure flooring: clean shavings or fine wood-chip – if the chick is still doing the splits, gently tie a piece of soft wool around each leg with a link between.
- Water: Use a small automatic waterer, never a dish that the chicks may fall into and become chilled. Chicks from an incubator should have their beaks dipped into the water; chicks reared by a hen will be taught to drink by the hen.
- Feeding: The newly hatched chick can survive on the yolk sac for up to 48-hours, but offer chick crumbs soon after hatching. The mother hen will show them the food: she’ll scratch the food around, tempting them to eat. They should remain on chick crumbs for about 6-8 weeks, when they can start eating grower’s pellets and wheat (with mixed grit).
- Growing on: As the incubator chicks outgrow their brooder box provide them with a larger area, but gradually reduce the heat as they ‘feather-up’ by raising the height of the heat lamp. Slowly adjust them to less heat by turning the lamp off during the warmest part of the day, and then remove it altogether. You will also need to accustom them to darkness at night if you’ve been using an infrared heat source. If you have an existing flock, it will be at least 6 months before your new ‘growers’ can be introduced. Chicks raised by a hen, however, can join the main flock at about 8-10 weeks, as she will protect them from bullying by the other hens.
Joining the Main Flock
- An established flock of hens has a ‘pecking order’ and will often bully newcomers, especially if they are smaller than themselves
- In an ideal world, the new pullets should be reared separately from the main flock until they have grown to the same size as the established flock, and then carefully introduced
- In all events, plan to introduce them in a way so that they can see one another, but not have physical contact: one way of achieving this is to construct a wire mesh enclosure for the new birds inside the existing run
- Provide a suitable coop to house them in the separate run, and the two groups will gradually get used to one another
- When you want the new birds to join the existing flock, wait for them all to roost, then carry the new hens into the henhouse and gently pop them onto a perch – in the morning the established hens tend not to notice that there are more hens in the house
- Let the newly-enlarged flock out at daybreak (as soon as they become active) so they are all outside with space for the new pullets to escape if one of the older hens tries to bully
- Make sure there is plenty of room in the henhouse – don’t overcrowd as this is a recipe for bullying
- Provide more than one feeding and watering station so there is less competition
- Hang several tit-bits, such as greens or cucumbers, in different places around the run to distract the birds
- There will still be a bit of ‘hen-pecking’ to establish the ‘pecking order’, but this should settle down in a few days
- Be vigilant for serious bullying: once a hen draws blood, she will often go into a pecking frenzy and do serious damage, or even kill her victim – so remove the injured bird as quickly as possible, and try again in a few days time
Sunday 17 March 2013
Life on the Smallholding
Have a look at the Blog for the Perkins-Adger Smallholding to see what they have been up to this weekend.
furzedownsmallholding.blogspot.com
furzedownsmallholding.blogspot.com
Saturday 16 March 2013
The Guild of Jam and Preserve Makers
The Guild of Jam and Preserve Makers
The Guild of Jam and Preserve Makers has been incorporated as a not-for-profit company limited by guarantee.
Guild Membership is open to industry, artisan and home producers, either as corporate or individual membership By joining together as a community there can be mutual benefits, we will have a unified voice and be one body of people for authorities and others to interact with. There are plenty of exciting developments coming along and we are very open to your suggestions. Leave them on the forum or contact us direct |
It's aims are . . .
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Thursday 14 March 2013
Ascott Newsletter - March 2013
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