By Ruth Tott

Keeping Ducks

Whilst keeping chickens in the garden is popular once more keeping ducks on the same basis is often considered far more difficult yet, as Terry Beebe explains, you don’t need a huge pond or land to keep them and in many instances they are proving to be better and more reliable layers than chickens, more hardy and they eat slugs – this alone should make many gardeners pick up and take notice.
But before you ‘dive in’ do your homework and contact organisations such as The British Waterfowl Association and the Call Duck Association and of course, once you’ve decided on the breed best suited to your needs each breed has it’s own association too so there is plenty of help and support around.  You must also, of course, make sure that your desire to keep ducks is not just a whim and that you maintain good animal welfare all the time and that you adhere to any legal requirements. DEFRA has issued guidelines for keeping backyard poultry which you must consult.

DUCK VARIETIES

There are several types of duck: diving, dabbling, perching, domestic, wild, and ornamental, with some breeds belonging to more than one of these categories. Almost all are descendants of the wild Mallard, the notable exception being the Muscovy duck, which originates from Central and South America and was introduced to Europe by the Spanish.

Mallards

Diving Ducks

This group includes Tufted ducks and Pochards, which can go to considerable depths to obtain food. Diving ducks simply love poking around at the bottom of ponds.

Dabbling Ducks

The Mallard and many of the domestic breeds belong to this group. The term simply means that they tend to dabble about on the surface, although they are quite capable of submerging themselves, should that be required.

Perching Ducks

The Mandarin and the Carolina, both of which are adapted for perching and nesting in trees, are members of this group. They also spend a lot of time in water, but will nest in trees or a nest box, should one be provided. The Muscovy is a perching duck, but in common with geese they tend to spend a lot of time grazing.

Domestic Ducks

Generally kept for utility purposes (usually meaning meat and eggs), the domestic duck is an ideal addition to most smallholdings because they provide a ready-made income, as both the eggs and meat are desirable products. One of the most popular breeds within this category are the Indian Runner Ducks, good layers and great fun to keep.

Assorted commercial Runner ducks.

Wild Ducks

These are simply those still found in the wild.

Ornamental or Exhibition Ducks

This group comprises primarily those with their own breed society and a defined standard to aspire to and compete with.

White Crested ducks.

BUYING DUCKS

Selecting ducks is really no different from choosing any poultry: birds need to be alert and should stand erect. Any that appear droopy in posture or look dull should be avoided – a sign of ill health or a potential problem in all poultry. Birds must also have a nice healthy sheen on the feathers; any with a ragged plumage may be suffering from some type of parasite or worm, with the single exception to this rule being when they are moulting – a natural process that occurs once or twice a year depending on the breed.
Look out for a slipped wing – known as ‘angel wing’, when a wing droops or drags on the floor – as this can be due to muscular weakness. Avoid breeding from such birds, as it is often hereditary. Good strong legs and feet are essential, so make sure there is no sign of limping. Check the bill, too, for signs of discharge.

A call duck with clear signs of angel wing.

Generally speaking, ducks are strong and healthy, and usually less susceptible to disease than chickens, but even so, careful selection of stock is of the utmost importance, especially if looking to show or breed them.

HOUSING REQUIREMENTS

As long as you provide sufficient space for the breed and number you intend to keep, all you need to do in addition is to provide a dry floor, a good roof, and shelter from the wind with good ventilation. Birds will need plenty of space to move around, flap their wings and be comfortable, and as with any birds, overcrowding will lead to problems. Try to provide as much space as possible, which will give room for expansion, should the opportunity arise. You could use a standard poultry house with the perches removed and a good door rather than a pop-hole – ducks prefer to emerge in a tight group, and this is difficult through a small pop-hole. A ramp will also be needed, and this should be as wide as possible to accommodate the morning mass exodus. The door should be positioned away from direct wind when opened.
Nest boxes are not necessary, as ducks tend to lay on the floor, so a narrow strip of wood holding some nesting material (chopped straw and/or wood shavings) in place will provide an ideal area for them to lay.
You can buy housing or construct your own and prices can range, as they do for chicken housing, from the moderate to the out and out ridiculous.

ACCESS TO WATER

Waterfowl need access to water, but not necessarily huge ponds or lakes. As long as the ducks can submerge their heads it should be sufficient; an old sink, plastic pond or a children’s paddling pool will usually keep them happy.

However, the breed you keep can affect the amount of water required.

Diving ducks need access to water at least 90cm (3ft) deep. Dabbling ducks, on the other hand, only require about 30cm (1ft), but can manage in as little as 15cm (6in), which will allow them to surface swim and dip their heads. If you cannot provide a depth of at least 90cm (3ft), diving ducks should definitely not be kept.

FEEDING

All ducks need a supply of protein, carbohydrates, fats, minerals and vitamins. There are now standard feeds available containing all that is needed to keep them in good health. That traditional duck favourite, bread, is fine as a treat, but make sure it is broken into very small pieces, and feed it only occasionally. Poultry layers’ pellets, duck pellets and mixed corn are ideal and should be fed all year round. Add oyster-shell for good eggshell quality and the birds should remain in tip-top condition.
Ducks will find their own natural food during the day (especially if allowed to free range), and this makes sure they get a natural complement to the feed you supply. Remove any feed with signs of mould, as this can introduce disease – keeping feed fresh will pay dividends both for your pocket and for the health of the ducks.

PINIONING

Many ducks are good flyers and will fly away given half the chance. To prevent them escaping, many keepers pinion the birds. This is carried out more on lighter weight breeds, as they have more of a tendency to fly than larger, heavier breeds. Pinioning involves removing the larger of the two wing sections attached to the end joint on the wing. The joint is then cauterised to help stop bleeding and to help the wing heal faster. It is essential that this is done correctly.
Pinioning may seem brutal, but it is the only effective way to prevent birds escaping if they are allowed to free range; the only other option is to keep them enclosed. It is better to be able to offer them freedom and to avoid the need for escape-free duck pens, which would make keeping ducks prohibitively expensive.

Pinioning must be carried out either by a vet or an experienced breeder to make sure it is done correctly. It should also be carried out when the birds are only a few days old, as it can prove very stressful for adult birds.

PREDATORS

The principal predators are the same as for chickens, and include foxes, rats, mink (now a native in parts of the UK), weasels, stoats, mice and a variety of birds such as magpies, rooks and birds of prey. Of course, a number of these are a nuisance rather than a cause of death, but even these creatures can cause health problems, as they do with chickens.
It is difficult to provide 100 per cent guaranteed protection from these predators, but making sure they are secure at night and as secure as possible in a run or safe area during the daytime will help. With rodents you have the option of trapping or poisoning, but always place poison where there is absolutely no chance of the ducks eating it by mistake. For foxes and the odd domestic dog, you will need strong, secure fencing up to 1.8m (6ft) high and sunk at least 30cm (12in) into the ground to prevent them from digging underneath. Hanging CDs above pens on string will frighten away most predatory birds, as movement causes the discs to flash as they blow in the wind.

A quick summary

• Make sure there are no restrictions on the land where the ducks are to be kept.
• The area the ducks occupy will need to be rotated often to keep the ground fresh and clean – their webbed feet will also turn a damp lawn to mush very quickly as they paddle about.
• Ducks are described as less destructive to veg than chickens (although the jury is out on this!), and they also eat more slugs.
• Water must be available, with the quantity and depth dependent on the breed.
• Suitable shelter that is warm, dry and well ventilated but draught free must be provided.
• Duck eggs are richer and larger than hens’ eggs, and many breeds are excellent layers.
•  Many exotic breeds are not prolific layers; if egg production is required, select a suitable commercial breed for the job.
• https://homefarmer.co.uk/keeping-ducks/?fb_ref=Default