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Monday, 18 July 2016









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https://poultrykeeper.com

Soft, Thin or Missing Egg Shells

Soft or missing egg shells (sometimes called shell-less eggs) are quite common in older birds, especially high production hybrids / good layers, especially as they come into or out of lay for the season. A ‘soft shelled egg’ is one that has a membrane but no shell.
This short clip shows you the difference between a thin egg-shell and a soft egg without a shell, just the membrane:
Back garden chicken-keepers are often concerned when they find a soft-shelled egg so this article aims to provide information about the causes of these strange eggs.

Some causes of soft-shelled eggs

Here are some of the reasons chickens lay shell-less or thin shelled eggs. I don’t think this list covers every situation but should cover the majority of cases.

1. In good layers

Good layers are the usual candidates for soft / shell-less eggs. For example hybrid hens have been selectively bred to lay hundreds of eggs (it’s not uncommon for the commercial ‘brown hens’ we see to lay 320 or more in a year) and I believe they are just producing eggs faster than they can shell them. The normal ‘shelling process’ usually takes around 24 hours and I have had hens produce a perfect egg followed by a shell-less egg in less than 12 hours.
In pullets (female chickens under a year old), sometimes an egg stays in the shell gland for too long and is often covered in excess calcium (see calcium coated shells), then the egg that follows doesn’t spend long enough in the shell gland. Again, the two eggs are laid closely together on the same day.
Having kept hybrids alongside pure breeds for many years, I’ve seen far more instances of shell-less eggs with the hybrids. Maybe we’ve pushed mother nature to the limit in our quest for more eggs?

2. Hot days

Thin egg shells or shell-less eggs can occur more frequently on hot days. This is associated with a lower food intake and shell thickness / shell will return to normal when the temperature drops again and your chicken’s food intake returns to normal. There have been some mentions of this in commercial farming where they see lower intakes of food on hot days and lower shell quality.

3. Insufficient shell-forming material

Oystershell-GritThis is the most obvious, but I have only listed it as number 3 because most of us these days are feeding our birds with a modern balanced feed and our hens have some access to free range and grit. Poor shells however can occur if hens aren’t supplied with sufficient shell forming material (mainly calcium). Chickens get calcium from soluble grit often called Oyster shell grit (shown right) and this should be supplied either on its own or as ‘mixed grit’ which includes flint grit for digestion too.
Another big source of calcium in a hens diet comes from their food. If you look at the ingredients on the back of layers pellets, you will see there is far more calcium than other feeds such as growers pellets. Fresh greens also provide hens with a source of calcium.

4. Old age

Some birds can lay more soft egg shells as they age. Again, this is particularly true of hybrid breeds that have been optimised to give as many eggs as possible during their first year such as the Bovan Goldline often found on commercial farms. Once these birds reach 4 or 5 years old, you may find they start to lay eggs with soft shells. If you are keeping ex-batts then our section of Rehoming Ex-Battery Hens has a number of articles, specifically for ex-battery hens and their needs.

5. Insufficient protein in the diet

Chickens need the correct level of protein in their diet as well as minerals and various other vitamins. Vitamin D3 (Cholecalciferol) for example is used for the metabolism of calcium and phosphorus so that they are able to form egg shells as well as strong bones. Vitamin D is found in Cod Liver Oil but they shouldn’t normally need this if they are fed the correct formulated layers feed, are free range and have sunshine on their backs.

6. Overweight hens

Chickens that are over weight can stop producing eggs altogether or produce lower quality eggs, sometimes with missing shells. Take a look at the breast of your birds, when the feathers are parted, you should see the skin is thin (almost like tracing paper) where the breast bone protrudes forward. If there is a thick skin, or you can’t see the breast bone clearly, the chances are your birds are carrying too much fat.
Caution: Mixed Corn and kitchen scraps
Mixed corn or ‘scratch’ as it’s sometimes called is made up mainly of wheat with a little cracked maize (yellow in colour). Wheat typically contains 10% protein which isn’t a sufficient amount for a laying hen. Maize is very fattening and hens carrying fat internally are more prone to laying problems such as prolapse and lay more shell-less eggs.Keep corn as a treat only. A handful per day per bird is sufficient.
You can check to see that you are feeding your chickens correctly on this page: Feeding Chickens. I only give my hens an extra handful of mixed corn on cold winter days – they can use the extra fat to keep warm.
Feeding household / kitchen scraps is technically no longer allowed by DEFRA but if you feed ‘allotment scraps’ (where scraps have not gone into the house / kitchen), they can be a bit of a mixed bag of what a hen needs in her diet. Whilst this is a way to save on feed costs, as a general rule, scraps shouldn’t exceed 25% of a hen’s diet. Allotment scraps should ideally be boiled and then mixed with layers mash to make a crumbly mixture so the hen is getting  a more balanced diet from the layers feed but since you’re not allowed to even pass through the kitchen with these scraps, it makes boiling them tricky!
The best way to ensure a hen is getting the correct diet is to use a balanced layers feed and then supplement this with greens and some free range for a hen to top up with other things she needs during the peak months of egg production.
If hens can be allowed to free range on grass or rough ground then this is much better than any vitamin drink or supplement. They will be able to pick up a lot of the extra grit, vitamins and minerals they need and be a lot less prone to health problems as well as soft-shelled eggs.
Soft Shell Less Egg
A soft, shell-less egg, laid by one of my hybrid hens.

Other reasons for soft-shelled eggs

If the above doesn’t seem to be the cause in your case or soft-shelled eggs are being laid regularly, then there could be a number of other reasons:
  • Inflamation of the oviduct (and there isn’t anything that can be done about this as far as I know).
  • Calcium absorption problems (if the diet is correct and oyster shell grit is provided ad-lib then there is sufficient calcium available but it cannot be absorbed correctly by the hen).
  • Stress. The problem usually goes away once the cause of stress is removed. Keep an eye out for bullying / feather picking, especially if it is occurring around the nest boxes and you are finding the soft-shelled eggs outside of the nest boxes. Apple Cider Vinegar is good to help hens with stress.
Soft shelled eggs laid once in a while are nothing to worry about. Hens that are at the start of their laying period, or have come to the end of it, often lay a soft-shelled egg.

 https://poultrykeeper.com/egg-problems/soft-thin-or-missing-egg-shells/

Saturday, 2 July 2016

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Orange Wine Recipe


Bottiglie Vino
Ben Hardy, wine blogger, occasional contributor in Home Farmer, prolific wine maker and author of Ben’s Adventures in Wine Making shares his Orange Wine Recipe.
See also:
Tutti-Fruity Christmas Wine
Spiced Beetroot Wine
Dandelion Wine
Strawberry Wine
Crab Apple Wine

Orange wine is one of my favourites. It is a reliable white that is both sharp and crisp. It is often one of my ‘midweek’ wines: something to open when I fancy a glass by itself without wanting to finish the whole bottle. It also works well with food – in particular Chinese or Thai, when the refreshing, slightly bitter taste cuts through the spice. However, be warned, orange wine is not universally popular.
 A double batch will give me twelve bottles, and this means I can space them out, one a month – that is the intention, anyway. The recipe and method below, though, is for a single batch. If you do make it but find that you dislike it, better that you only have six bottles rather than twelve to pour down the sink or give away as presents.
You will need a dozen oranges, and the cheapest place I have found to buy these is Leeds Market, where in the past I have bought ten for a pound. These were small, so, repressing all my Yorkshire miserliness, I splashed out the following year and bought larger oranges at eight for a pound. The total cost for six bottles comes to a staggering £4, give or take a penny or two. Extravagance indeed.
Try and avoid the pith but don't worry too much about a little bit getting in.
Try and avoid the pith but don’t worry too much about a little bit getting in.
All recipes I have seen for orange wine come with dire warnings about what might happen should you get any pith whatsoever into your mixture. These soothsayers of doom generally predict death and destruction on a global scale. In fact, I find it impossible to wholly avoid pith and a little does not seem to matter. The pith, it is true, is the orange’s most bitter part and this wine does have bitter undertones, but no one throws out their pots of marmalade for the sake of an orange peel taste.
INGREDIENTS
12 oranges
3lb of sugar
61/2 pints of water
A sachet of yeast
1 tsp yeast nutrient
1 tsp pectolase
METHOD
1          Take six of the oranges and peel the zest thinly.
2          Put the zest (with or without a bit of pith) into a bowl and pour over 2 pints of boiling water. Cover the bowl and leave to stand for about a day (exact timing is not important).
3          Squeeze all twelve oranges and put the juice into a sealable bucket.
4          Add the sugar, the remaining water (which can be just cold tap water) and the water that contained the peel (but not the peel itself).
5          Add the yeast and chemicals and stir until the sugar has dissolved. If you added boiling water, you will need to wait until the liquid is no more that 35°C.
6          Store the bucket in a warm place with its lid on and leave for 5–6 days to allow fermentation to calm sufficiently.
7          Sieve the liquid into a demijohn to filter out any pips and other unwanted bits of orange.
8          Leave the demijohn to stand for 2–3 months. The wine should clear to a pleasing yellow colour with a small sediment.
9          Rack the wine into a fresh demijohn and make up any gap with a syrup made from a ratio of 6oz sugar to 1 pint of water – you will probably only need a 1/2 pint of water and 3oz of sugar.
If making in March the wine will be ready for bottling in September, but you can leave it as long as you want before doing this after you have racked it.  You should be able to drink it 12 months after step 1-6
Click here to keep up with Ben’s wine making adventures.
Click here to buy Ben’s Adventures in Wine Making

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