Press release

New measures to protect poultry against Avian Flu

From:

Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs and Animal and Plant Health Agency

First published:

6 December 2016

The Chief Veterinary Officer has declared a Prevention Zone to help protect poultry from a strain of Avian Flu in Europe.

The Government Chief Vet has declared a Prevention Zone introducing enhanced biosecurity requirements for poultry and captive birds, helping protect them from a strain of avian flu circulating in mainland Europe. The zone covers England and will remain in place for 30 days.
Keepers of poultry and other captive birds are now required to keep their birds indoors, or take appropriate steps to keep them separate from wild birds.
Outbreaks of Highly Pathogenic Avian Influenza (H5N8) have been confirmed in poultry and wild birds in several countries across Europe. No cases of H5N8 have been found in the UK and this order is a precautionary measure to help prevent potential infection from wild birds.
Public Health England (PHE) advises that the threat to human health remains very low.
Defra is continuing to monitor the situation closely and has increased its surveillance activity, while keepers are being urged to reinforce biosecurity measures on their premises.
Chief Veterinary Officer Nigel Gibbens said:

While no cases of H5N8 avian flu have been found in the UK, and PHE advises the public health threat is low, we are closely monitoring the situation across Europe and have scaled up surveillance in response to the heightened risk.
As a precaution, and to allow time for poultry and captive bird keepers to put in place appropriate biosecurity measures, we have declared a 30-day Prevention Zone to reduce the risk of infection from wild birds.

Even when birds are housed a risk of infection remains so this must be coupled with good biosecurity—for example disinfecting clothing and equipment, reducing poultry movement and minimising contact between poultry and wild birds.

Poultry keepers are advised to be vigilant for any signs of disease in their birds and any wild birds, and seek prompt advice from their vet if they have any concerns. They can help prevent avian flu by maintaining good biosecurity on their premises, including:

• cleansing and disinfecting clothing, footwear, equipment and vehicles before and after contact with poultry – if practical, use disposable protective clothing;
  
• reducing the movement of people, vehicles or equipment to and from areas where poultry are kept to minimise contamination from manure, slurry and other products and using effective vermin control;
  
• thoroughly cleaning and disinfecting housing at the end of a production cycle;
  
• keeping fresh disinfectant at the right concentration at all points where people should use it, such as farm entrances and before entering poultry housing or enclosures; and
  
• minimising direct and indirect contact between poultry and wild birds, including making sure all feed and water is not accessible to wild birds.
  

Further information

• Since 3 November, highly pathogenic avian influenza of subtype H5N8 has been found in dead wild birds in Austria, Croatia, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Netherlands, Poland, Romania, Sweden, Switzerland, Ukraine and the Russian Federation. These outbreaks have affected various wild bird species, including Tufted Ducks (Aythya fuligula), Common Pochard (Aythya ferina), gull species, wild geese, wild swans and various other wild waterfowl and raptors. Read the latest outbreak assessment or sign up to our Alerts Service to keep up to date with the latest news.
  
• Clinical signs that poultry keepers should look for in their birds include a swollen head, discolouration of neck and throat, loss of appetite, respiratory distress, diarrhoea and fewer eggs laid – although these vary between species of bird.
  
• Where avian influenza (or Newcastle Disease) is not strongly suspected, but cannot be ruled out, poultry keepers may wish to liaise with their private veterinarian about using the Animal and Plant Health Agency (APHA) ‘testing for exclusion’ regime in GB. This involves submitting samples to a testing service at the APHA’s National Reference Laboratory, Weybridge and can help detect a notifiable avian disease at the earliest opportunity for such cases.
  
• We’ve published advice on biosecurity and how to prevent disease. Wild bird surveillance activity in Great Britain has been increased. If poultry keepers or the general public find dead wild waterfowl (swans, geese or ducks) or gulls, or five or more dead wild birds of other species in the same location, they should report them to the Defra helpline by calling 03459 33 55 77.
  
• For more information contact Defra press office on 020 8026 3663 or out of hours on 0345 051 8486.
  
   www.gov.uk/government/news/new-measures-to-protect-poultry-against-avian-flu
  

 

Delicious Baked Ham Recipe

This simple-to-follow recipe for baked ham gives tasty cuts of ham for breakfast or the Boxing Day buffet. The aromatic smells wafting around the kitchen from cooking this baked ham recipe summons up Christmas all by itself and the taste is divine. It also looks the part with the honey and mustard glaze and the traditional criss-cross pattern scored into the surface.

Our favourite Christmas Ham uses using cloves, honey and mustard and is a real ‘proper job.’ The extra effort involved really pays off as the ham doesn’t just taste great, it also looks great on the Christmas table ‒ and that look simply improves each time it is carved.

THE BOILING
This is an essential first stage for any ham, whether you wish to roast or boil it. I have always regarded it as the real cooking process, as to roast an entire ham could be a risky process, and if it was dressed at the beginning, the dressing would either be burnt or you would have to remove the ham at a late stage of the roasting process, roll back the silver foil and apply the dressing. The ham would then need to heat up again, so you can perhaps see my point about the two separate stages.
INGREDIENTS
3kg (6lb 10oz) unsmoked gammon (preferably with the rind and fat on)
5 bay leaves
A handful of peppercorns
5 star-anise
A cinnamon stick, broken into 2 pieces
4 tbsp runny honey
1 tbsp mustard powder
Cloves
METHOD
1              Put the ham in a stockpot and cover it with water. Add the bay leaves, peppercorns, star-anise and cinnamon stick, then boil gently for 1½ hours with the lid on. The aroma will drive a dog wild (I speak from experience here!), so either open a window or remove the dog from the kitchen.
2              Remove from the heat, drain off the water and put the ham on a chopping board with a clean tea towel or similar underneath to soak up the inevitable residue of liquid.
3              Using a sharp knife, remove the rind (you can fry this for pork scratchings)

4              Leave the ham to cool for a few minutes, then score the surface fat, creating a diamond pattern – as the ham roasts this will become a real highlight of the presentation!
5              Meanwhile, mix the runny honey with the mustard powder to form a paste, then select some large cloves (everybody has cloves somewhere in the kitchen).

6              Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F, Gas 4) and transfer your ham to a roasting tray, where you can decorate it with the cloves, then cover it generously with the paste. I found it easier to smear the paste on with my fingers rather than flap about with a palette knife or spoon.
7              Roast the ham in the preheated oven for about 45 minutes, basting with the paste a couple of times until the glaze is a dark golden colour. Check your ham each time you open the oven door to baste it, and if it looks to be a little too brown, cover with silver foil to slow down the roasting process.
homefarmer.co.uk

 www.lovepork.co.uk

 



Jonathan Benjamin ‘JB’ Gill has been announced as the ambassador for British Sausage Week 2016, the annual sausage celebration which rewards those bangers with the X factor.
British Sausage Week 2016 (31 October – 6 November) is in its 19th year and is asking one-and-all to celebrate the sausage! And who better to sing the praises of the popular British banger than former X Factor contestant and chart-topping band member of JLS, Jonathan Benjamin ‘JB’ Gill.
JB, who after selling millions of records and performing to countless number of fans across the globe, left the music industry, with his wife Chloe and son, Ace, to become a farmer who has since reared pigs, cattle and deer.  A regular on BBC’s Countryfile and currently presenting CBeebies TV series, Down on the Farm, he has a passion for educating young and old about the countryside, which also includes plans to add author to his CV, with a range of books about the countryside and farming life planned for the future.
JB will help British Sausage Week celebrate the sausage, by talking family-life, farming and foodie-favourites to the media. JB will award the best sausages in retailers, independent butchers/farm shops and catering establishments, following a nationwide competition, which has drawn well over 700 entries. His son, Ace, has also got in on the action and created one of the recipes for British Sausage Week, Ace’s Pork Sausage Fajita Wraps.
JB Gill said: “It’s a huge pleasure to be involved in British Sausage Week 2016, celebrating the amazing range of sausages from around the country. In our house, sausages are always a go-to option for a quick, easy and tasty mid-week meal, which my family loves tucking into.
“I’m passionate about food and it’s one of the reasons why I went into farming. I know from my own experience the attention and care which goes into producing quality fresh pork sausages, so when choosing your sausages look for the Red Tractor logo on pack. This way you’re not only supporting British farmers, but ensuring the sausages you eat are from pigs produced to high welfare standards.  With more than 500 varieties to choose from, there’s a sausage to suit everyone’s tastes. And if you’re looking for a sausage recipe with a twist, give my son’s sausage fajitas a go!
“So please join me in celebrating the best bangers in the country during British Sausage Week, which runs 31 October – 6 November.”
 www.lovepork.co.uk/

Beef short rib ragu -http://mistermeatball.blogspot.co.uk/

Beef short rib ragu -http://mistermeatball.blogspot.co.uk/

The furnace has been running lately. So has the living room fireplace.

It's braising season.

Not a lot of things are better for braising than short ribs. They're terrific served whole, of course, but I was in the mood for a hearty ragu the other evening, and so that's the direction I went in.

Nobody complained.

I started out with 3 pounds of beef short ribs. After liberally seasoning the ribs with kosher salt and black pepper I dredged them in all-purpose flour and then tossed them into a dutch oven with plenty of olive oil.

After the ribs have browned on all sides, remove and set aside.

Add one large chopped carrot, two celery stalks, one medium onion, one leek, four garlic cloves, and some thyme. Saute until the vegetables have softened.

Return the ribs to the dutch oven and add one quart of stock (beef here), 2 cups of red wine, and one can of tomatoes. Let the liquid come to a boil, then cover the pot and place in an oven preheated to 375 degrees F.

After around two hours check that the meat is tender. If it isn't tender continue to cook until it is. Once tender remove from the oven and allow things to cool.

Once cool enough to handle, remove the ribs from the sauce and pick away all the meat from the bones.

All that's left to do now is add the meat back into the sauce, reheat and serve.

As you can see by the picture up top I served the ragu over polenta the first night. The next night I went with cavatelli.

It feels like winter tonight. I only wish there was still some of the stuff left.
 http://mistermeatball.blogspot.co.uk/

 

Foraging in September: five edible berries and nuts to look out for

By Helen Keating , 

Go for a walk in September and you’ll almost certainly find an abundance of edible wild food.

Early autumn is the best time enjoy foraging. It's when hedgerows and trees are heavy with the jewel-like colours of ripening fruits and nuts.
I believe that gathering and eating wild food is the best way to understand and respect this natural resource. But overenthusiastic collecting can put populations of species at risk, so please forage responsibly.

Beech nuts (Fagus sylvatica)

Each beech tree produces a bumper crop of nuts, also known as beech masts, every 4-5 years. When you find them they could be abundant, though squirrels, badgers and birds may have got there first.
How to use it: the nuts make a tasty raw nibble when you’re out and about. Scrape off the outer brown skin to reveal the triangular seed. They can be used in a similar way to pine nuts, sprinkled on salads and risottos. Roast in the oven then place between two tea towels and rub to remove shells. Beech nuts can be slightly toxic if consumed in large quantities due to the tannins and alkaloids.
What to look for: look out for pairs of three-sided nuts in bristly cases from mid-September and throughout October.
Find out how to identify beech.

Hawthorn berries (Crataegus monogyna)

The leaves of hawthorn are traditionally known as 'bread and cheese' which usually refers to their very basic culinary qualities. But some people have eaten the berries  together with autumnal leaves (they are apparently just about edible) which also gives the name bread and cheese. The leaf is the bread and the berry the cheese.
How to use it: generally haws are not consumed raw due to the large stone and dry, starchy flesh. They are much better when cooked and go well in jams, jellies, vinegar and ketchup. For a hedgerow tipple try hawthorn schnapps.
What to look for: hawthorn berries are also known as haws. They are around fruits are about 1cm long  and resemble small apples with a single seed. They are best picked when they’re a deep red and fully ripe.
Find out how to identify hawthorn.

Rosehip (Rosa canina)

Rose hips are the red and orange seed pods of rose plants commonly found in hedgerows.
How to use it: the hips have a fleshy covering that contains the hairy seeds (the irritant hairs were traditionally used by schoolboys to make itching powder). The outer layer is packed with vitamin C and they are renowned for helping stave off winter colds. They are good in wines, jellies, jams and and can be used to make a delicately flavoured rosehip syrup for cordial or pouring onto ice cream or pancakes.
What to look for: look for bright red rosehips from September to November along hedgerows and woodland fringes. Snip or carefully pull the hips close to the base of each pod (to avoid being attacked by prickly thorns).
Find out more about dog rose.

Rowan berries (Sorbus aucuparia)

Rowan is also known as mountain ash because it grows well at high altitudes and its leaves are similar to those of common ash. The two species are not related. In late summer and early autumn you'll notice ripening clusters of orange-red berries.
How to use it: rowan berries can be used to make rowan jelly (delicious with game), wine, hedgerow jelly, fruit leather and wild fruit vinegar.
What to look for: the small berries ripen to a striking red and are ready from late September and throughout autumn. Collect as a cluster from the tree.
Find out how to identify rowan.

Sloes (Prunus spinosa)

The blackthorn is best known for its crop of tart, acidic fruits used to make the deep-red, wintry drink, sloe gin.
How to use it: the general rule is to pick after the first frost as it softens the skins and helps to release the juices. You can get round this by picking early and freezing at home instead. Make sloe gin or try using sloes for whisky, jams and vinegar.
What to look for: the blue-black berries are ready for picking from the end of September to December. In some years, blackthorn trees along hedgerows and fields are heavy with fruit.
Make delicious sloe gin with our easy recipe.
Find out how to identify blackthorn.

 http://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/blogs/woodland-trust/2016/09/foraging-in-september/?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=blogs&utm_content=food

 

HF’s food historian, Seren Hollins, digs into her rationing cookbooks for inspiration to turn fruit into slightly more wholesome preserves. Like our recipe for parsnip cake this brings out the natural sweetness of the fruit (or veg) to sweeten. Whilst some recipes suggest replacing sugar with stevia this one uses the fruit’s natural sweetness and fruit juice to add the sweetness to the jam.

Seren’s Tip: Pic the very best, ripest fruit you can find as there will be no added sugar to mask any tartness or pep up the end result.

INGREDIENTS

• 1.8kg pears, peeled and cored
• 2 lemons
• 60ml white grape juice
• 3 tsp pectin powder (for jam making)

METHOD

1           Quarter the prepared pears, cut each quarter in half, then place the pieces in a saucepan and cook (covered, with enough water to cover just the bottom of the pan) for 10–12 minutes, until soft.
2           Leave the softened pears to cool, then blend with a food processor, hand blender, or just a good old-fashioned potato masher if nothing else is to hand. Set aside the pear purée.
3           Finely slice 1 of the lemons after removing the pithy core. To do this, cut it in half along the stem line and remove the pithy centre, then turn each lemon half over and slice finely. Place the slices into a small saucepan, cover with water and simmer for 10 minutes.
4           Put the water in which the lemons simmered and the pear purée into a large saucepan, add the squeezed juice of the remaining lemon to the mixture, then bring to the boil over a medium heat. Once boiling, reduce to a gentle simmer, stirring regularly to prevent sticking or burning.
5           Blitz the lemon slices in a food processor and add the lemon pulp to the simmering pears, then stir well.
6           When the pear mixture has a soft, smooth consistency, remove it from the heat and add the white grape juice, stirring well.
7           Bring the pear mixture back to the boil and quickly stir in the pectin powder. Cook the jam, stirring constantly for exactly 1 minute, bring it back to the boil, then remove from the heat.
8           Pour the jam into sterilised jars, wiping the rims clean before sealing the lids.
This jam will keep for 8–10 weeks in the fridge, and is delicious in its own right, but is best spread on thick toast.
 https://homefarmer.co.uk

 

 How to Freeze Eggs

Andrea Chesman, author of Kitchen Know-How shares her advice on how to freeze eggs. Legally an egg can be laid as many as 30 days before it must be packaged. Its’ sell-by date is another 30 days after that. The egg is still considered fresh for another 3 to 5 weeks after that, so there’s no real hurry for getting eggs into the freezer. However, there is such a thing as too many eggs in the finite space of a refrigerator. In that case, freezing is a good option.
See also:

Selling Your Surplus Eggs

How to Pickle Quail Eggs

Why Chickens Lay Coloured Eggs

 

Eggs should be removed from their shells for freezing. They can be kept frozen for up to a year, and they should be thawed in the refrigerator the day before you intend to use them. There are textural changes: the yolks get rather gummy, and it is noticeable in omelets and scrambled eggs. They should be used only in dishes that will be completely cooked and combined with other ingredients, such as in custards and baked goods such as cookies and cakes. Cakes will not rise quite as high with frozen and thawed eggs, but the difference may not be that dramatic.

Whole Eggs

To freeze whole eggs, crack the eggs into a bowl and gently stir to break up the yolk, but do not beat them; you want to avoid incorporating air into the eggs. Egg yolks, gelatinize when frozen, becoming so thick and solid they are impossible to use. To prevent this and maintain the best texture, stir in ½ teaspoon salt per cup of eggs. Label the container with the date and the number of eggs.

Egg Yolks

The problem with egg yolks gelatinizing when freezing is even greater when you freeze yolks alone. To prevent this a much as possible, stir in either ⅛ teaspoon salt or 1½ teaspoons sugar per ¼ cup of egg yolks (about 4 yolks). Label the container with the date and the number of egg yolks and whether salt or sugar was added.

Egg Whites

Raw egg whites do not gelatinize when frozen, so no added salt or sugar is needed. Label the container with the date and the number of egg whites. Once thawed, whites will beat to a better volume if allowed to sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes.

Frozen Eggs – The Maths

You’ll want to freeze eggs in convenient sizes for defrosting relatively small amounts at a time. Some people like to use ice cube trays for freezing the eggs, then transfer the eggs into freezer bags. (if you use plastic ice cube trays, be scrupulous about removing any egg residue before reusing the ice cube trays for ice!)

1 whole egg = 2 cubes

2 egg yolks = 1 cube

1 egg white = 1 cube

2 cubes = ¼ cup

4 cubes = ½ cup

6 cubes = ¾ cup

8 cubes = 1 cup

1 tablespoon thawed egg yolk = 1 large fresh egg yolk

2 tablespoons thawed egg white = 1 large fresh egg white

3 tablespoons thawed whole egg = 1 large fresh egg

Fresh vs Older Eggs

Fresh eggs generally taste better than older eggs, but there are two instances where older eggs are more desirable than fresh eggs:

• When you are beating egg whites separately – to make meringues and mousses, for example, or to lighten a batter – the whites will achieve a greater volume if they are slightly older.
• When you are hear-boiling eggs, the older eggs will release their shells and peel more readily than fresher eggs.

This useful egg wisdom was from Kitchen Know-How by Andrea Chesman, published by Storey as part of their The Backyard Homestead range. Packed full of information and little gems of advice and myriad tips for the homesteader/home farmer and smallholder this is an extremely comprehensive guide giving plenty of ideas for making the most out of everything you grow and raise.
The book is split into 3 chunky sections: Getting the Most from Fresh Food, Food Preservation and Homestead cooking and is great for dipping in and dipping out for advice as well as ‘I didn’t know that’ nuggets making it a worth while read indeed.
www.homefarmer.co.uk

https://poultrykeeper.com

Soft, Thin or Missing Egg Shells

Tim Daniels 1st December 2009 Egg Problems

Soft or missing egg shells (sometimes called shell-less eggs) are quite common in older birds, especially high production hybrids / good layers, especially as they come into or out of lay for the season. A ‘soft shelled egg’ is one that has a membrane but no shell.

This short clip shows you the difference between a thin egg-shell and a soft egg without a shell, just the membrane:
Back garden chicken-keepers are often concerned when they find a soft-shelled egg so this article aims to provide information about the causes of these strange eggs.

Some causes of soft-shelled eggs

Here are some of the reasons chickens lay shell-less or thin shelled eggs. I don’t think this list covers every situation but should cover the majority of cases.

1. In good layers

Good layers are the usual candidates for soft / shell-less eggs. For example hybrid hens have been selectively bred to lay hundreds of eggs (it’s not uncommon for the commercial ‘brown hens’ we see to lay 320 or more in a year) and I believe they are just producing eggs faster than they can shell them. The normal ‘shelling process’ usually takes around 24 hours and I have had hens produce a perfect egg followed by a shell-less egg in less than 12 hours.
In pullets (female chickens under a year old), sometimes an egg stays in the shell gland for too long and is often covered in excess calcium (see calcium coated shells), then the egg that follows doesn’t spend long enough in the shell gland. Again, the two eggs are laid closely together on the same day.
Having kept hybrids alongside pure breeds for many years, I’ve seen far more instances of shell-less eggs with the hybrids. Maybe we’ve pushed mother nature to the limit in our quest for more eggs?

2. Hot days

Thin egg shells or shell-less eggs can occur more frequently on hot days. This is associated with a lower food intake and shell thickness / shell will return to normal when the temperature drops again and your chicken’s food intake returns to normal. There have been some mentions of this in commercial farming where they see lower intakes of food on hot days and lower shell quality.

3. Insufficient shell-forming material

This is the most obvious, but I have only listed it as number 3 because most of us these days are feeding our birds with a modern balanced feed and our hens have some access to free range and grit. Poor shells however can occur if hens aren’t supplied with sufficient shell forming material (mainly calcium). Chickens get calcium from soluble grit often called Oyster shell grit (shown right) and this should be supplied either on its own or as ‘mixed grit’ which includes flint grit for digestion too.
Another big source of calcium in a hens diet comes from their food. If you look at the ingredients on the back of layers pellets, you will see there is far more calcium than other feeds such as growers pellets. Fresh greens also provide hens with a source of calcium.

4. Old age

Some birds can lay more soft egg shells as they age. Again, this is particularly true of hybrid breeds that have been optimised to give as many eggs as possible during their first year such as the Bovan Goldline often found on commercial farms. Once these birds reach 4 or 5 years old, you may find they start to lay eggs with soft shells. If you are keeping ex-batts then our section of Rehoming Ex-Battery Hens has a number of articles, specifically for ex-battery hens and their needs.

5. Insufficient protein in the diet

Chickens need the correct level of protein in their diet as well as minerals and various other vitamins. Vitamin D3 (Cholecalciferol) for example is used for the metabolism of calcium and phosphorus so that they are able to form egg shells as well as strong bones. Vitamin D is found in Cod Liver Oil but they shouldn’t normally need this if they are fed the correct formulated layers feed, are free range and have sunshine on their backs.

6. Overweight hens

Chickens that are over weight can stop producing eggs altogether or produce lower quality eggs, sometimes with missing shells. Take a look at the breast of your birds, when the feathers are parted, you should see the skin is thin (almost like tracing paper) where the breast bone protrudes forward. If there is a thick skin, or you can’t see the breast bone clearly, the chances are your birds are carrying too much fat.

Caution: Mixed Corn and kitchen scraps
Mixed corn or ‘scratch’ as it’s sometimes called is made up mainly of wheat with a little cracked maize (yellow in colour). Wheat typically contains 10% protein which isn’t a sufficient amount for a laying hen. Maize is very fattening and hens carrying fat internally are more prone to laying problems such as prolapse and lay more shell-less eggs.Keep corn as a treat only. A handful per day per bird is sufficient.

You can check to see that you are feeding your chickens correctly on this page: Feeding Chickens. I only give my hens an extra handful of mixed corn on cold winter days – they can use the extra fat to keep warm.
Feeding household / kitchen scraps is technically no longer allowed by DEFRA but if you feed ‘allotment scraps’ (where scraps have not gone into the house / kitchen), they can be a bit of a mixed bag of what a hen needs in her diet. Whilst this is a way to save on feed costs, as a general rule, scraps shouldn’t exceed 25% of a hen’s diet. Allotment scraps should ideally be boiled and then mixed with layers mash to make a crumbly mixture so the hen is getting  a more balanced diet from the layers feed but since you’re not allowed to even pass through the kitchen with these scraps, it makes boiling them tricky!
The best way to ensure a hen is getting the correct diet is to use a balanced layers feed and then supplement this with greens and some free range for a hen to top up with other things she needs during the peak months of egg production.
If hens can be allowed to free range on grass or rough ground then this is much better than any vitamin drink or supplement. They will be able to pick up a lot of the extra grit, vitamins and minerals they need and be a lot less prone to health problems as well as soft-shelled eggs.

A soft, shell-less egg, laid by one of my hybrid hens.

Other reasons for soft-shelled eggs

If the above doesn’t seem to be the cause in your case or soft-shelled eggs are being laid regularly, then there could be a number of other reasons:

• Inflamation of the oviduct (and there isn’t anything that can be done about this as far as I know).
• Calcium absorption problems (if the diet is correct and oyster shell grit is provided ad-lib then there is sufficient calcium available but it cannot be absorbed correctly by the hen).
• Stress. The problem usually goes away once the cause of stress is removed. Keep an eye out for bullying / feather picking, especially if it is occurring around the nest boxes and you are finding the soft-shelled eggs outside of the nest boxes. Apple Cider Vinegar is good to help hens with stress.

Soft shelled eggs laid once in a while are nothing to worry about. Hens that are at the start of their laying period, or have come to the end of it, often lay a soft-shelled egg.

 https://poultrykeeper.com/egg-problems/soft-thin-or-missing-egg-shells/

 

By Ben Hardy

Orange Wine Recipe

Ben Hardy, wine blogger, occasional contributor in Home Farmer, prolific wine maker and author of Ben’s Adventures in Wine Making shares his Orange Wine Recipe.
See also:
Tutti-Fruity Christmas Wine
Spiced Beetroot Wine
Dandelion Wine
Strawberry Wine
Crab Apple Wine

Orange wine is one of my favourites. It is a reliable white that is both sharp and crisp. It is often one of my ‘midweek’ wines: something to open when I fancy a glass by itself without wanting to finish the whole bottle. It also works well with food – in particular Chinese or Thai, when the refreshing, slightly bitter taste cuts through the spice. However, be warned, orange wine is not universally popular.

 A double batch will give me twelve bottles, and this means I can space them out, one a month – that is the intention, anyway. The recipe and method below, though, is for a single batch. If you do make it but find that you dislike it, better that you only have six bottles rather than twelve to pour down the sink or give away as presents.

You will need a dozen oranges, and the cheapest place I have found to buy these is Leeds Market, where in the past I have bought ten for a pound. These were small, so, repressing all my Yorkshire miserliness, I splashed out the following year and bought larger oranges at eight for a pound. The total cost for six bottles comes to a staggering £4, give or take a penny or two. Extravagance indeed.

Try and avoid the pith but don’t worry too much about a little bit getting in.

All recipes I have seen for orange wine come with dire warnings about what might happen should you get any pith whatsoever into your mixture. These soothsayers of doom generally predict death and destruction on a global scale. In fact, I find it impossible to wholly avoid pith and a little does not seem to matter. The pith, it is true, is the orange’s most bitter part and this wine does have bitter undertones, but no one throws out their pots of marmalade for the sake of an orange peel taste.
INGREDIENTS
12 oranges
3lb of sugar
61/2 pints of water
A sachet of yeast
1 tsp yeast nutrient
1 tsp pectolase
METHOD
1          Take six of the oranges and peel the zest thinly.
2          Put the zest (with or without a bit of pith) into a bowl and pour over 2 pints of boiling water. Cover the bowl and leave to stand for about a day (exact timing is not important).
3          Squeeze all twelve oranges and put the juice into a sealable bucket.
4          Add the sugar, the remaining water (which can be just cold tap water) and the water that contained the peel (but not the peel itself).
5          Add the yeast and chemicals and stir until the sugar has dissolved. If you added boiling water, you will need to wait until the liquid is no more that 35°C.
6          Store the bucket in a warm place with its lid on and leave for 5–6 days to allow fermentation to calm sufficiently.
7          Sieve the liquid into a demijohn to filter out any pips and other unwanted bits of orange.
8          Leave the demijohn to stand for 2–3 months. The wine should clear to a pleasing yellow colour with a small sediment.
9          Rack the wine into a fresh demijohn and make up any gap with a syrup made from a ratio of 6oz sugar to 1 pint of water – you will probably only need a 1/2 pint of water and 3oz of sugar.
If making in March the wine will be ready for bottling in September, but you can leave it as long as you want before doing this after you have racked it.  You should be able to drink it 12 months after step 1-6
Click here to keep up with Ben’s wine making adventures.
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Lemon Ketchup By Ruth Tott

 

Food historian Seren Hollins makes a special lemon ketchup – or catsup as it was actually should be called. This sauce is great for stir-frys, to drizzle over new potatoes or indeed to add a bit of zest to a standard salad. Naturally it is fantastic with fish and seafood – infact it is perfect, absolutely perfect, with fish and chips making it an alternative to tomato ketchup or even mayonaise. This is a great alternative to Lemon Curd if you’ve ‘bagged’ a lot of lemons that need using up.
It not only tastes great but it’s simple to make as well!

Ingredients

• 12 large unwaxed lemons, grated rind and juice
• 2 pints white wine vinegar
• 4 tbsp mustard seeds (yellow)
• 1 tbsp turmeric powder
• 1 tbsp white pepper
• 1 tsp ground cloves
• 2 tbsp white granulated sugar
• 1 finely minced shallot or small onion
• 2 tbsp salt
• Dash of cayenne pepper

Method

Mix together  all the above ingredients in a mixing basin, cover and allow  to stand in a cool place for 3 hours.
Place the ingredients into a heavy based saucepan and bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Pour into a sterilised jar(s) I use the swing top/clamp down Kilner style jar, cover tightly and allow to stand for 2 weeks, stirring every day. After two weeks decant into sterilised jars and seal.

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By Ruth Tott

Keeping Ducks

Whilst keeping chickens in the garden is popular once more keeping ducks on the same basis is often considered far more difficult yet, as Terry Beebe explains, you don’t need a huge pond or land to keep them and in many instances they are proving to be better and more reliable layers than chickens, more hardy and they eat slugs – this alone should make many gardeners pick up and take notice.
But before you ‘dive in’ do your homework and contact organisations such as The British Waterfowl Association and the Call Duck Association and of course, once you’ve decided on the breed best suited to your needs each breed has it’s own association too so there is plenty of help and support around.  You must also, of course, make sure that your desire to keep ducks is not just a whim and that you maintain good animal welfare all the time and that you adhere to any legal requirements. DEFRA has issued guidelines for keeping backyard poultry which you must consult.

DUCK VARIETIES

There are several types of duck: diving, dabbling, perching, domestic, wild, and ornamental, with some breeds belonging to more than one of these categories. Almost all are descendants of the wild Mallard, the notable exception being the Muscovy duck, which originates from Central and South America and was introduced to Europe by the Spanish.

Mallards

Diving Ducks

This group includes Tufted ducks and Pochards, which can go to considerable depths to obtain food. Diving ducks simply love poking around at the bottom of ponds.

Dabbling Ducks

The Mallard and many of the domestic breeds belong to this group. The term simply means that they tend to dabble about on the surface, although they are quite capable of submerging themselves, should that be required.

Perching Ducks

The Mandarin and the Carolina, both of which are adapted for perching and nesting in trees, are members of this group. They also spend a lot of time in water, but will nest in trees or a nest box, should one be provided. The Muscovy is a perching duck, but in common with geese they tend to spend a lot of time grazing.

Domestic Ducks

Generally kept for utility purposes (usually meaning meat and eggs), the domestic duck is an ideal addition to most smallholdings because they provide a ready-made income, as both the eggs and meat are desirable products. One of the most popular breeds within this category are the Indian Runner Ducks, good layers and great fun to keep.

Assorted commercial Runner ducks.

Wild Ducks

These are simply those still found in the wild.

Ornamental or Exhibition Ducks

This group comprises primarily those with their own breed society and a defined standard to aspire to and compete with.

White Crested ducks.

BUYING DUCKS

Selecting ducks is really no different from choosing any poultry: birds need to be alert and should stand erect. Any that appear droopy in posture or look dull should be avoided – a sign of ill health or a potential problem in all poultry. Birds must also have a nice healthy sheen on the feathers; any with a ragged plumage may be suffering from some type of parasite or worm, with the single exception to this rule being when they are moulting – a natural process that occurs once or twice a year depending on the breed.
Look out for a slipped wing – known as ‘angel wing’, when a wing droops or drags on the floor – as this can be due to muscular weakness. Avoid breeding from such birds, as it is often hereditary. Good strong legs and feet are essential, so make sure there is no sign of limping. Check the bill, too, for signs of discharge.

A call duck with clear signs of angel wing.

Generally speaking, ducks are strong and healthy, and usually less susceptible to disease than chickens, but even so, careful selection of stock is of the utmost importance, especially if looking to show or breed them.

HOUSING REQUIREMENTS

As long as you provide sufficient space for the breed and number you intend to keep, all you need to do in addition is to provide a dry floor, a good roof, and shelter from the wind with good ventilation. Birds will need plenty of space to move around, flap their wings and be comfortable, and as with any birds, overcrowding will lead to problems. Try to provide as much space as possible, which will give room for expansion, should the opportunity arise. You could use a standard poultry house with the perches removed and a good door rather than a pop-hole – ducks prefer to emerge in a tight group, and this is difficult through a small pop-hole. A ramp will also be needed, and this should be as wide as possible to accommodate the morning mass exodus. The door should be positioned away from direct wind when opened.
Nest boxes are not necessary, as ducks tend to lay on the floor, so a narrow strip of wood holding some nesting material (chopped straw and/or wood shavings) in place will provide an ideal area for them to lay.
You can buy housing or construct your own and prices can range, as they do for chicken housing, from the moderate to the out and out ridiculous.

ACCESS TO WATER

Waterfowl need access to water, but not necessarily huge ponds or lakes. As long as the ducks can submerge their heads it should be sufficient; an old sink, plastic pond or a children’s paddling pool will usually keep them happy.

However, the breed you keep can affect the amount of water required.

Diving ducks need access to water at least 90cm (3ft) deep. Dabbling ducks, on the other hand, only require about 30cm (1ft), but can manage in as little as 15cm (6in), which will allow them to surface swim and dip their heads. If you cannot provide a depth of at least 90cm (3ft), diving ducks should definitely not be kept.

FEEDING

All ducks need a supply of protein, carbohydrates, fats, minerals and vitamins. There are now standard feeds available containing all that is needed to keep them in good health. That traditional duck favourite, bread, is fine as a treat, but make sure it is broken into very small pieces, and feed it only occasionally. Poultry layers’ pellets, duck pellets and mixed corn are ideal and should be fed all year round. Add oyster-shell for good eggshell quality and the birds should remain in tip-top condition.
Ducks will find their own natural food during the day (especially if allowed to free range), and this makes sure they get a natural complement to the feed you supply. Remove any feed with signs of mould, as this can introduce disease – keeping feed fresh will pay dividends both for your pocket and for the health of the ducks.

PINIONING

Many ducks are good flyers and will fly away given half the chance. To prevent them escaping, many keepers pinion the birds. This is carried out more on lighter weight breeds, as they have more of a tendency to fly than larger, heavier breeds. Pinioning involves removing the larger of the two wing sections attached to the end joint on the wing. The joint is then cauterised to help stop bleeding and to help the wing heal faster. It is essential that this is done correctly.
Pinioning may seem brutal, but it is the only effective way to prevent birds escaping if they are allowed to free range; the only other option is to keep them enclosed. It is better to be able to offer them freedom and to avoid the need for escape-free duck pens, which would make keeping ducks prohibitively expensive.

Pinioning must be carried out either by a vet or an experienced breeder to make sure it is done correctly. It should also be carried out when the birds are only a few days old, as it can prove very stressful for adult birds.

PREDATORS

The principal predators are the same as for chickens, and include foxes, rats, mink (now a native in parts of the UK), weasels, stoats, mice and a variety of birds such as magpies, rooks and birds of prey. Of course, a number of these are a nuisance rather than a cause of death, but even these creatures can cause health problems, as they do with chickens.
It is difficult to provide 100 per cent guaranteed protection from these predators, but making sure they are secure at night and as secure as possible in a run or safe area during the daytime will help. With rodents you have the option of trapping or poisoning, but always place poison where there is absolutely no chance of the ducks eating it by mistake. For foxes and the odd domestic dog, you will need strong, secure fencing up to 1.8m (6ft) high and sunk at least 30cm (12in) into the ground to prevent them from digging underneath. Hanging CDs above pens on string will frighten away most predatory birds, as movement causes the discs to flash as they blow in the wind.

A quick summary

• Make sure there are no restrictions on the land where the ducks are to be kept.
• The area the ducks occupy will need to be rotated often to keep the ground fresh and clean – their webbed feet will also turn a damp lawn to mush very quickly as they paddle about.
• Ducks are described as less destructive to veg than chickens (although the jury is out on this!), and they also eat more slugs.
• Water must be available, with the quantity and depth dependent on the breed.
• Suitable shelter that is warm, dry and well ventilated but draught free must be provided.
• Duck eggs are richer and larger than hens’ eggs, and many breeds are excellent layers.
•  Many exotic breeds are not prolific layers; if egg production is required, select a suitable commercial breed for the job.
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By Ruth Tott

Lemon Curd

Curd can be made out of any, usually citrus, fruit and the most common one is Lemon Curd and can be spread on toast or used in other recipes such as this one for Lemon Curd Bread and Butter Pudding or Lemon Crumble Tray Bake.  You can add it to ice cream to make Lemon Curd Ripple, sandwich in biscuits to make a Lemon Curd Dodger or add it to cheesecake. You don’t need to use just one fruit either – you can introduce an additional fruit into the mix too, Bramley Apple Lemon Curd for instance. The skill is not to scramble the eggs which is why curd is usually made on the hob rather than in a microwave although it can be done.  – lumpy lemon curd does not hit the spot. LizzieB’s recipe makes a slightly thicker than custard, smooth, mellow yellow curd that is tangy and zesty.

INGREDIENTS

• The rind of 1 unwaxed lemon
• The juice of 3 large lemons
• 200g sugar
• 110g butter
• 2 large eggs
• 2 egg yolks

METHOD

1           Place the lemon rind, lemon juice, sugar and butter in a heatproof bowl.
2           Place the bowl over a pan of simmering water and stir until the butter has melted.
3           Beat the eggs and egg yolks together in a separate bowl.
4           Remove the heatproof bowl from the heat, add the eggs carefully, then beat together well to combine.
5           Place the bowl back over the heat and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon.
6           Transfer to a pre-prepared jar, then seal and store in the fridge.
The lemon curd will keep for up to 2 months in the fridge.
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By Ruth Tott 

Best Chicken Breeds for Laying Eggs

Buff Orpington lay approx 175 – 200 light-brown eggs per year

Hens all lay eggs, but some do it better than others. Terry Beebe considers the best chicken breeds for laying eggs, pure-breed and hybrid, and he shows us how to get the best from them
Selecting birds for an egg-laying flock is not difficult, but you will need to research the matter to find the best birds for the job. If you prefer to keep pure-breeds, then selecting a commercial pure-breed is probably a better option, and these include the Rhode Island Red, Sussex, Wyandotte, Leghorn, Australorp and Rock. They are all ideal egg producers, but be careful when choosing, as many exhibition breeds are bred purely to a show pen standard, and egg-laying capabilities often suffer as a result.

The Australorp. Lays around 200-240 brown eggs per year

There are many other breeds suitable for egg production too, so do some research before you commit yourself, and take into account the fact that they should be easy to handle and produce sufficient eggs for your requirements. Certain chickens also produce different sizes and colours of egg, whilst others might fare better in different environments – Leghorns, for example, lay a large, white egg and can do well in more confined areas.

Leghorn. 280 white eggs per year.

Plymouth Rocks are also reasonably suited to smaller areas, while Rhode Island Reds provide very dark-brown eggs – you get the general picture, but there is always a breed to suit your requirements.

Ancona bantams are good layers of small eggs but require less space than large fowl.

FINDING THE BEST LAYERS
Things to look out for when selecting members of the flock include large combs (ideally, bright-red ones), together with an alert and active disposition – bright eyes are usually a very positive sign. When holding a bird you can check the width of the pubic bones – there should be at least two fingers’ width between these bones, and four fingers should fit in between the tip of the breastbone and the vent. The abdomen should be soft, rounded and deep.

Checking the width between the breastbone and the event.

Chickens come in many different varieties, and all lay eggs. These eggs have the same nutritional content and value, but only a handful of breeds can actually be placed in the very best egg-laying category. A number of breeds have been developed for their egg-laying capabilities, and if this is your main requirement, then these breeds will best serve your purpose. The commercial Leghorn, for example, is one of the best, and is capable of producing up to 300 eggs each year – these same abilities have also been utilised by crossing with Leghorns to produce many of today’s familiar hybrids.

The rare Ixworth is both a good layer and an excellent meat bird.

COMMERCIAL HYBRIDS
Most commercial hybrids are bred for egg production, so if eggs are your sole requirement, these would be your best choice. Most hybrids were originally crossed using some of the best pure-breed egg layers, and today there are many individual strains available from a range of breeders, with most capable of very high levels of egg production. It is expected that a hybrid in a ‘commercial environment’ will produce around 340 eggs per year.

ISA Brown hens

The ISA Brown is the most familiar of today’s hybrids, and is widely used under different names, depending on the supplier. It is probably the best egg layer available and the one most often used in commercial units. Most ex-battery hens are ISA Browns, and are traditionally friendly and tame, once they get used to a more open environment.
The list of hybrids is extensive and includes the Black Rock, Black Star, Red Star, Speckledy (a Maran cross), the White Star (a Leghorn cross) and the Blue Bell. Many will lay in excess of 300 eggs per year, subject to the breed and husbandry – a back-garden bird, however, will rarely lay as well as a bird in a commercial environment.

A Speckledy

SOME OF TODAY’S TOP LAYERS
Some of today’s top layers:

*           Leghorn – 280 white eggs per year.

*           Rhode Island Red – 260–310 brown eggs per year.

*           Light Sussex – 240–260 large, creamy-brown eggs per year.

*           Plymouth Rock – 190–240 large, brown eggs per year.

*           Wyandotte – 200–240 large, brown eggs per year.

*           Cuckoo Maran – 160–240 dark-brown eggs per year.

*           Barred Rock – 210 brown eggs (with a touch of pink) per year.

*           Orpington – 175–200 light-brown eggs per year.

*           Australorp – 200–240 brown eggs per year.

*           Faverolle – 160–200 cream-tinted eggs per year.

 

 The above egg numbers are approximate, and the egg colours broadly as per the description. If considering any of the above birds, speak with owners and breeders and ask about their experiences with the birds, and remember that some birds are simply better layers than others.
THINGS TO CONSIDER
Although the breed you choose can determine the productivity, there are a number of other factors that can help increase egg production. These include:
*           DAYLIGHT AND LIGHTING
Light affects egg production. Although a winter moult plays its part in stopping egg production, hens always lay fewer eggs as daylight decreases, and production will begin to increase again with longer days in spring. To produce the maximum number of eggs you might expect from a particular breed, the birds will need a minimum of 14 hours of light each day, and to achieve this during winter, artificial lighting is required together with a timer. The lights can then come on before sunrise and remain on after dark, with the timer set to give the precise amount of light required to maximise egg laying.
*           EX-BATTERY HENS
These birds have usually come from commercial poultry farms, are generally 18–24 months old, and have been in confinement on the farm. They will have produced the maximum amount of eggs during this period, and although they are past their very best, they can still produce a good amount of eggs for the next year or two, given the right feed and environment. When they arrive they will be stressed, so stand back and give them a few days to settle in and get used to their new surroundings.
*           BROODINESS
It is a good idea to compare breeds for broodiness – whether they will sit on their eggs. A broody is useful for breeders, but a serious problem in an egg-laying flock. A broody hen will cease to lay during periods of broodiness. This trait has been more or less bred out of hybrids, although broody hybrids do occur.
*           FOOD
To ensure your hens’ bodies function as they should, they require a nutrient-rich diet. It is important that a laying hen receives a balanced diet which includes the correct levels of protein, carbohydrates, fat, vitamins and minerals. If a laying flock consists of birds older than 16–20 weeks, it is recommended that a diet of layers’ pellets is given as a basic daily feed. Layers’ pellets contain 16–18 percent protein and 3.5 percent calcium to promote strong eggshells. Many keepers also add oyster-shell for extra calcium just in case the feed does not provide enough of this important mineral. A calcium deficiency can result in thin-shelled eggs and also leg problems.

You may also need to offer your birds a higher-protein feed during periods of peak egg production, and when hot weather causes them to eat less. If you keep your flock confined, provide them with a source of insoluble grit to assist in grinding the feed in their gizzards. Free-range birds will normally find sufficient grit whilst foraging.

*           WATER
Water comprises more than half of the physical content of an egg, so laying chickens (and all chickens!) need a constant supply of fresh, clean water. This ensures that they do not dehydrate and will remain healthy. It must be available at all times, both during hot, dry weather and in the freezing cold of winter. If there is a lack of water, egg production will suffer.
*           SHELTER
The weather in the UK is unpredictable, so make sure your birds always have adequate shelter. They will quickly become chilled during wet weather if they are denied shelter, which means that production, together with health, will suffer. Housing and any temporary shelter needs to be dry, clean and with enough room and ventilation for the number of birds being housed.
POSSIBLE PROBLEMS
Problem:
Chickens laying eggs anywhere and everywhere.
Solution:
Confine the birds completely or until later in the day; put artificial ‘dummy’ eggs in nest boxes.
Problem:
Egg-eating chickens.
Solution:
Gather eggs promptly; provide secluded, darkened nest sites; identify the culprit(s) and remove them from the flock.

Putting a golf ball in with the eggs will often discourage egg eating.

Problem:
Filthy eggs.
Solution:
Provide nest boxes with clean litter; keep coops, runs and nest boxes clean; collect eggs frequently.
Problem:
Reduced egg production.
Solution:
Provide a good, balanced diet of layers’ pellets; protect eggs from predators; install artificial lighting; reduce sources of stress; improve biosecurity to prevent disease.
HENS’ HALL OF SHAME
Certain breeds are just not good layers, and these same birds can be difficult to rear to adulthood. They include the Belgian D’Anver, Sebright and the Japanese Bantam. All are true bantams, and beautiful birds in their own right, but can prove difficult to breed, especially for a beginner.
THE WORST LAYERS
In truth, all chickens lay eggs. Exhibition birds can be some of the worst layers in terms of numbers, as this ability has often been sacrificed to achieve a required breed standard. When it comes to breeding, Japanese Bantams can lose as many as 25 per cent of their chicks, as they die shortly before hatching due to an allele (gene) combination common to the breed, together with the fact that they are not hardy. Although Araucanas are great to rear, they, too, can suffer from a lethal gene combination, which means that some chicks will die before hatching – a depressing prospect.
AGGRESSIVE CHICKENS
Whilst in the ‘hall of shame’ we should perhaps consider another difficult trait. Certain breeds can be aggressive, and this makes them a poor choice, especially for families. Breeds with aggressive behaviour include the Crevecoeur, New Hampshire Red, Dominique and Old English Game Fowl. The level of aggression will vary depending on the individual bird, but cockerels are always more likely to be aggressive than hens. < pic 12 with caption: An Oxford English Game Fowl: an attractive bird but with aggressive tendencies. >
COLLECTING CLEAN EGGS
It is always more pleasant to collect clean eggs, and the likelihood of this is increased if your birds are kept in clean, dry conditions with uncrowded nest boxes. You can clean an egg in a number of ways; in the commercial egg industry they are often cleaned using water, but if this is not done properly it can result in bacteria being sucked into the egg through the porous shell. If using water to clean eggs, dry them immediately and consume them quickly. You can clean an exceptionally dirty egg using fine-grade sandpaper, but you would be better off throwing it away to be on the safe side.
Anyone used to collecting their own eggs who has then had to buy some (even the free-range ones!) will immediately appreciate the difference: runny, pale-yolked eggs as opposed to your own birds’ solid and bright, yellow-yolked wonders. Fresh eggs are one of the real benefits of keeping chickens, and are to be prized, whether as a part of your own breakfast, as a gift to friends or family, or as something special and unique if you choose to sell any of your produce. Treat your hens well with a good supply of appropriate food, water and clean, dry shelter, and for most of the year they will repay you well with a good supply of eggs. There are very few creatures that can offer such an appealing payback in exchange for their keep.
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